Wednesday, 11 July 2007

Love Trilogy? You will do soon

I like to maintain a healthy scepticism prior to reviewing any products, whether beauty or otherwise, to ensure I don't fall for brand marketing hype that informs us of the indispensability of particular goods. So, with my usual reviewing nonchalance I cleansed my face with Trilogy's Cream Cleanser, before applying their Energising Face Lotion and Eye Contour Cream. I did this several times over a matter of days and I have to say, I actually noticed a distinct difference in the appearance and texture of my skin, which has started to look more vibrant and feel significantly smoother. My scepticism has transformed into amazement. Trilogy, I'm impressed.

Trilogy, established by New Zealand sisters, Sarah Gibbs and Catherine Wells, is a celebrity favourite and has received triumphant reviews from publications such as Red, Harpers Bazaar, She, The Sunday Times and Vogue. Now they can add me to the list of converts. I am one of those individuals who scour ingredients lists with a fine toothed comb, to ensure that nothing dubious is lurking within a product. Trilogy's products are cruelty-free and devoid of parabens, silicons, peg's and fillers, synthetic colours and fragrances, GMO derived ingredients, harsh detergents and surfacants and pesticide and herbicide residues. The preservative system they use is non-toxic and complemented with natural preservatives, such as grapefruit seed extract and vitamin E.

You might think that oil based items are pore clogging and I have often found this to be the case with past products, but Trilogy's range of skincare is gentle on the skin, easily absorbed and feels intensely nourishing. Of course, if you want healthy, glowing skin in the long term, you need to address your nutritional needs, but Trilogy products are the perfect complement to a healthy lifestyle, so your skin reflects your inner well-being.

Wednesday, 4 July 2007

The synthetic hitlist

Beauty products are often laden with potentially harmful synthetic and chemical ingredients. So, where do you even begin? The prospect of scouring all your products for chemical nasties can seem daunting, but it is really not so bad and it is an entirely worthy endeavour if you are keen to protect your health and the planet. My secret is very simple, purchase beauty products that are certified organic and have as few ingredients in as possible. Most decent natural beauty brands provide ingredients lists on their websites and avoid using parabens, sodium lauryl and laureth sulphates and other chemical foamers and preservatives. To give you that vital kickstart here is a mere modicum of the suspicious substances you need to look out for.

1.4- Dioxane - Can potentially cause irritation of the eyes and respiratory tract and depress the central nervous system. High levels said to cause headaches and dizziness. The US Environmental Protection agency has cited 1.4- Dioxane as a possible carcinogen.
Alcohol, Isopropyl (SD-40) - Linked with premature skin aging and skin dehydration.
DEA (diethanolamine), MEA (Monoethanolamine)TEA (triethanolamine) - Used in cosmetics to alter the pH balance and as a base in some cleansers. Can cause allergic responses. One study in 1994 found that when topically applied to rats DEA caused anaemia, nerve damage and kidney degeneration.
Formaldehyde - Potential eye, throat and skin irritant. Linked with headaches and chronic fatigue.
Fragrance - Can be a sign that many toxic ingredients are present. Some observations have shown detrimental effects on the central nervous system.
Lanolin - Cosmetic grade lanolin can be contaminated with pesticides and insecticides.
Mineral Oils (Petrolatum, Liquidum paraffinum, Paraffin oil, Paraffin wax) - Can clog the pores and reduce the skin’s ability to detoxify. Linked to premature aging.
Parabens (methyl, propyl, butyl, ethyl) - Used to increase product shelf life. Potential skin irritant. Researchers at The Department of Biology and Biochemistry at Brunel University have found parabens to be mildly oestrogenic and suggested that their safety in products should be re-evaluated.
Phthalates - Two types of phthalates have already been prohibited in cosmetics (DEHP and DBP). Linked by some studies with liver, kidney and lung damage as well as damage to the reproductive system of developing foetuses. In a study by the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) 5% of the 20 – 40 year old women tested were shown to have concerning levels of phthalates.
Propylene Glycol - Used as a humectant to stop products dying out. Some research at the American Academy of Dermatologists has shown to be a skin irritant.
Sodium Laureth Sulphate (see also Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, also watch out for Ammonium Laureth Sulphate) - Used in shower gels, shampoos etc to make them foamier. Linked with skin irritation, hair loss and impaired hair growth according to the American Journal of Toxicology.
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (also watch out for Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate) - Can strip away the skin’s surface oil causing dryness and allergic reactions. Tests on lab animals have indicated that SLS can cause the degeneration of cell membranes. May possibly react with other chemicals in products to form potentially carcinogenic dioxins and nitrates. Possible damaging effects on the immune system, liver and lungs.
Synthetic Colours (Coal tar dyes – FD& C colour pigments, colours followed by a number such as blue 1, yellow 6) - Said by some to be carcinogens when ingested or applied to the skin. Also said to cause skin sensitivity and irritation.
Talc - Cosmetic grade talc has been linked with an increase in the development of ovarian cancer.
Toluene - Used in hairspray and nail polish. Is a potential skin irritant. Has been linked with liver damage.
Xylene (look out for xylol or dimethylbenzene) - Used in hairspray and nail polish. Linked with liver damage and irritation of the skin and respiratory tract.

Tuesday, 3 July 2007

Skincare Café: Providing organic and vegan skincare

My natural beauty product du jour is Skincare Café. Their products are Vegan and Vegetarian Society approved, cruelty-free (as they are not tested on animals) and handmade in the UK with Ecocert and Soil Association certified organic ingredients. The brand's aim is to provide quality, affordable, organic skincare that avoids the inclusion harmful and toxic substances. Skincare Café's products are completely free from all: Petrochemicals, alcohol, lanolin, DEA, TEA, MEA, PEG’s, propylene glycol, benzoates, synthetic perfumes and colourants, GM ingredients, talc, sodium lauryl/laureth sulphate and all parabens.

My favourite Skincare Café products are: the Organic Grapeseed and Aloe Vera Cleanser, for £11.99, which incorporates grapeseed, aloe vera and organic lavender essential oil and the Organic Lemongrass Purifying Face Mask, for £10.99, which contains organic lemongrass (obviously!), natural clay (great for drawing impurities out of the skin) and rosemary organic essential oil. These products are easily absorbed, nice and light and fabulous for those suffering from sensitive skin or other skin conditions. Highly recommended!

Monday, 2 July 2007

Go all natural with Viola Organics

It's not always easy sourcing genuinely natural beauty products that don't come with a long list of suspicious looking ingredients, so Viola Organics is a breath of fresh air. The New Zealand based brand was established in 1986, after the founder, Pam Blowers, suffered from a re-occurrence of cancer (she was initially diagnosed in 1985), inspiring her to produce a range of natural beauty products. Viola is now managed by her daughter, Janine Matchett. Viola only use pure ingredients, which means no parabens, artifical preservatives, stabilisers, emulsiers and other nasties and in 2003 the brand received BioGro Organic Certification, so their products and processes are audited and monitored.

Viola incorporate shea butter and jojoba oil into their products, as well as a whole range of other lush and natural ingredients. Shea butter contains essential fatty acids (EFA), which are known for their moisturising, softening and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as vitamins A, D, E and K, which are great for protecting and regenerating the skin. Jojoba oil contains proteins, minerals and a waxy substance that behaves like collagen.

There is quite an extensive range to choose from and Viola also sell men's beauty products, many of which are very reasonably priced. If you want to avoid getting out a list of potentially harmful ingredients and checking it against every beauty product you consider purchasing, take a look at Viola. Their ingredients are so natural you will not need to bother!

Tried and Tested: Rose Crystal Lymphatic Facial

Location: The wholly holistic Organic Pharmacy in High Street Kensington.
What is it? This remarkably luxurious treatment enlivens the senses, firms the skin and stimulates your lymphatic system using Accupressure massage, cleansing, AHA exfoliation (buffing off those dead skins cells), steaming, extraction, Rose Crystals and a range Organic Pharmacy products. The Organic Pharmacy, true to their word produces a variety of totally 100% natural products utilising the finest natural ingredients.
Results: This was my out-and-out favourite facial for product quality, pampering and relaxation. Celebrity devotees include Kylie Minogue, Yasmine Le Bon and Jerry Hall. My face was manipulated into near skin perfection (my skin will never be completely perfect!). The face steaming and extraction were not quite so soothing as my blackheads were duly eased out, but the foot and leg massage and the 4 lush face masks (rose hip, seaweed, honey and jasmin and collagen) completely made up for this. My skin was cooled and melted to a butter soft texture. I walked out of the Organic Pharmacy on a big fluffy white cloud and floated to the train station.
Cost: £100 for 90 minutes, £75 for 60 minutes.

To contact or for more information see
www.theorganicpharmacy.com or call 020 7376 9200.

Green People Organic Body Spa range

Green People have launched a luxurious new range of beauty products, called Organic Body Spa. They utilise natural oils, with delicious aromas so that you can have a virtual spa in your very own home. As with other Green People products the Organic Body Spa range is free from nasty synthetic additives and has been certified organic by the Soil Association and The Organic Food Federation (although I do not recommend eating the products).


Key active ingredients in the products include: Pomegranate Oil (chock full of polyphenol antioxidants), cranberry oil (with Omega-3&6 fatty acids and vitamin E and Rosehip oil (rich in essential fatty acids, for super smooth, healthy skin.)

For a weekend of self-indulgence, get yourself the Weekend Pamper Gift Set, including four mini products from the range.

Sunday, 1 July 2007

Tried and tested: Organic Microdermabrasion

Location: Metrospa at FordhamWhite, an acclaimed Soho salon shortlisted for Best London Salon by HAIR magazine Awards.
What is it? Skin for Life have crafted a fabulous machine that offers microdermabrasion, LED Light Therapy and liquid oxygen concentrates either individually or unified to create one phenomenal face treatment. This provides super exfoliation, shots of oxygen to plump and re-hydrate the skin and light to heal imperfections and promote collagen growth. The organic grains used are less harsh than traditional microdermabrasion crystals and are highly therapeutic. Aveda products are incorporated into the facial.
Results: I was apprehensive about having grains blasted against my skin but the reality of organic microdermabrasion is a rather more enjoyable experience. The sensation of the machine refining my skin with the tiny organic grains was unusual but pleasant. The oxygen shots felt delightfully refreshing and the light therapy soothed my skin. A refrigerated Aveda face-mask was applied cooling my skin, followed by one of Aveda’s tourmaline charged creams. The tourmaline is said to make the beneficial ingredients in the products more potent. My skin certainly looked and felt glowing after the treatment. This is a welcome alternative to traditional microdermabrasion, but having looked at the ingredients in Aveda products, they are not as innocuous as some of the other natural brands.
Cost: £60 for the first session and £80 for subsequent sessions or if you purchase 5 sessions you get the 6th one free.

To contact or for more information see
www.fordhamwhite.com or call 020 7287 8484